In Paris this week, Anrealage designer Kunihiko Morinaga lived as much as his repute for combining technical wizardry with craftsmanship.
His Paris Vogue Week present Tuesday, in a subterranean area beneath town’s Palais de Tokyo venue, took his signature photochromic material expertise—supplies that dramatically change shade beneath ultraviolet gentle—to much more excessive ranges of innovation.
This season, his material of selection for the photochromic remedy was clear, environmentally pleasant “phthalate-free” PVC, in all method of iterations. The gathering was aptly titled “Invisible.”
Anrealage outfits earlier than (left) and after the ultraviolet lights flicked on. Picture: Anrealage
First to take to the venue’s central podium had been a collection of puffer silhouettes, which had been quilted with air as an alternative of down or feathers. They had been described by the present notes as resembling “couture bubble wrap.”
Fashions walked out individually or in pairs, first doing a circuit in common lighting so the unique state of the clothes could possibly be noticed by showgoers. However then they positioned themselves on a central disc whereupon the lighting modified to ultraviolet.
This in flip acted upon the clothes, reworking them into all colours of the rainbow. The disc proceeded to slowly revolve so everybody may see the complete 360-degree impact. Then the lights went up they usually exited the stage within the newly coloured appears, which slowly pale again to their authentic state.
Extra streamlined trench silhouettes adopted, some contoured into checkerboard patterns through taped seams. These duly took on a number of hues within the completely different squares and borders. Even the denim and cotton bodysuits worn beneath modified their colours to disclose a repeat sample of “AZ” monogram logos.
Morinaga, who has been experimenting with photochromic material expertise for over a decade, has even trademarked his proprietary tech beneath the identify ANVISUAL.
Alongside the couture-level tech, Morinaga’s handcraftsmanship was additionally clearly evidenced, and the going through and seams had been usually hand-embroidered or knitted.
The designer additionally modulated the present lights through a “hyperspectral shade management expertise,” so shades rippled throughout the surfaces of the clothes in line with the completely different gentle sources.
Anrealage outfits earlier than (left) and after the ultraviolet lights flicked on. Picture: Anrealage
The present notes said that the idea was derived from Morinaga’s exploration of “umwelt” (German for “setting”), with the concept being that “shade as perceived by the human eye is just not absolute and shifts in line with the setting, relying on the climate and bodily and chemical parts.”
The ultimate pairing, essentially the most spectacular of all, featured a raincoat duo with a kaleidoscopic mosaic impact recalling stained glass. It performed out to a suitably ecclesiastical inflected organ soundtrack.
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